Light, fan, and a spinning plate prove the control can run accessories. They do not prove the oven is producing microwaves. A cup of water that stays cool after a minute on high is a complete homeowner test. A second test is not safer; it is just more time on a failed unit.
If you see sparks or smell burning, skip the water test. Unplug the oven.
Running is not cooking
Door switches tell the control the door is closed. A tired switch can let the lamp run and still keep the magnetron off — or, worse, create a condition you should not experiment with. A loose door is a stop-use, not a “hold it shut with a towel” fix.
Why you never open the cabinet
The high-voltage capacitor can hold a charge. There is no household reason to confirm a diode or magnetron yourself. Over-the-range units add the risk of a cabinet coming down on a cooktop.
A dead turntable still heats, unevenly. A dead OTR vent fan still cooks. Those are separate parts. If your display shows a code, write it down. This site publishes a microwave F2 guide where that code is documented; other codes are not translated from that page.