Every load adds lint. The screen catches the easy stuff. The hose, the wall run, and the cap catch the rest. When that path clogs, the dryer runs hot, the clothes stay damp, and the thermal fuse on electric models eventually opens.
This is not the place to “see if one more cycle helps” after you smell scorching.
The path from drum to outdoors
Clean the screen before it looks furry. Pull the dryer straight out — not by walking it on the hose — and check for a crushed or coiled plastic hose. Rigid or semi-rigid metal is what most installations should have used; cheap vinyl accordion hose kinks and collects lint in every rib.
The cap on the house
Outside, the damper should move when the dryer runs. Birds, lint, and a cap that was painted shut all count as a blockage. If you cannot see the termination, you cannot certify the run is clear.
When the run needs more than a hose tug
Long concealed runs, crushed wall ducts, and lint packed in an elbow behind drywall are not lint-screen jobs. If the accessible hose is open and the dryer still overheats or takes two cycles, stop using it until the heat and the hidden duct are checked.